The HeaterCore + Questions Options

[biggy7]

hi guys

just got hold of a second user dd maze 3 kit:

Maze3 CPU block
GFX block
NB block
Crtitcool water plant res (new)
Eheim 1250
danger den tubing.

all im missing is a rad, im thinking of getting "The Heatercore" from here, purely cos of the price and have heard its pretty good. Although proper reviews are limited and hard to find.

A few questions :

would this heatercore be able to cool all 3 blocks fine? anyone got one that that can advise me on this?

also is the heatercore brass or copper? will i have any corrosion problems when using it with the above blocks?

also i was told that the blocks were not used for very long and when i received them, they had some black stuff (algae?) inbetween the lucite top and the copper block around the edges. How do i get rid of it? is there anything i can use before hand to wash the blocks out with?

I dont really want to take the top off as it will void the warranty. Ive looked inside of the maze3 through the barbs and from i can see it looks spotless.

also do the barbs on the cpu block need to have that pfte tape (white plumbing tape) on the threads? as they dont currently have them on.

the eheim pump has currently got a 1/2" adapter on the inlet side (blue plastic), and no adapter on the outlet (top) as its 1/2" already i think?. Would it be wise for me to get an adapter that is available from you so it can hold the tube better? or will it do without one? (obviously using wormdrive hoseclips at all times)

if anyone can answer my noob questions, id be grateful,

cheers!

[Marci]

Although proper reviews are limited and hard to find.

Here's one - http://www.gamingin3d.com/reviews/dtek/ (The DTek heatercore is the same as the DangerDen heatercore... just Dangerden don't paint theirs... the DangerDen one (the one we sell) will also soon be available with Clear shroud too... tis brass as well...

As long as you use a corrosion inhibitor such as water-wetter, purple ice or zerex then you won't have any corrosion probs.

would this heatercore be able to cool all 3 blocks fine? anyone got one that that can advise me on this?

It all depends what those 3 blocks are going on. Yes, the heatercore will cool the three blocks if they're just sat on yer desk with water goin thru. It might not if you attach them to an electric ring on yer cooker... more info needed.

they had some black stuff (algae?) inbetween the lucite top and the copper block around the edges. How do i get rid of it? is there anything i can use before hand to wash the blocks out with?

I wouldn't worry about it to be honest. It's only white goop that ya really need to keep an eye on...

also do the barbs on the cpu block need to have that pfte tape (white plumbing tape) on the threads? as they dont currently have them on.

depends... we only stock the lucite topped blocks, on which all the barbs are epoxied in place... if the barbs aren't epoxied in place on your block then yes, it would probably b best to PTFE it...

[biggy7]

cheers marci mate for ya quick reply!

It all depends what those 3 blocks are going on. Yes, the heatercore will cool the three blocks if they're just sat on yer desk with water goin thru. It might not if you attach them to an electric ring on yer cooker... more info needed.

gona be putting it on an AT7 Mobo with an xp1700 DLT3C running @ 1.9Ghz and above (hopefully) in a cheiftec dragon midi.

GFX card is kyro2 64mb hercules (doesnt get that hot but got the gfx block with the kit so might aswell use it, same with the NB)

prob be looking to get a an Abit NF7-S v2.0 mobo and better gfx card further down the line.

so u say i shouldnt worry about that black stuff then? any other precuations i can make to the blocks b4 leak testing? i dont want them to blow up cos they are second user so not sure what type of usage they've been through.

cheers!

edit: oh, when will u be getting the shroud mate? will it be sold seperatley? i'l probably make my own to begin with, adnsee wat happens

[Marci]

Blocks can't blow up. Pump water thru em. If they leak they leak, in which case reach for either the phone (and shout at the person who sold u em), the ptfe tape or the silicon sealant, if they don't they don't. That's about all there is to it. Just don't fit them into yer rig prior to leak testing.

The heatercore should cope fine with those 3 blocks on that hardware. If you ever upgrade yer graphics to a top end Radeon or Geforce tho you may want to upgrade to a 2x120 rad.

[biggy7]

cheers mate

ive been offered a black ice extreme 2 for cheap, but thought it might be bit too big and could get away with using a heatercore..

what do you think?

for future proof, should i get that bix2?

[Marci]

tbh, I'd get the heatercore... they're fun n ghetto lookin, and the shrouds for em are plexi so u can do some nice stuff with lights... At the end of the day if you ain't gonna be doin GPU overclocking etc then u should be ok with the heatercore... if it turns out not the case, then sell it thru The TradingPost and then buy a bigger one when u actually need it...

[biggy7]

cheers for ya help mate

ive decided to go for the bix2, paying less for it then i would if i bought the heatercore, and it probably do me fine for a while.

cheers marci for ya help, much appreciated!

now i need to work out where the damn things gona go!

[tc_overclocker]

Ok then......I'm looking to be adding my watercooling kit soon and was wondering if I was going a bit OTT with:

3x120mm Rad to cool CPU on loop1
2x120mm rad to cool NB and GPU on loop2

???

[Gav2k]

they had some black stuff (algae?) inbetween the lucite top and the copper block around the edges. How do i get rid of it? is there anything i can use before hand to wash the blocks out with?

spirt vinegar will get the black stuff out

-or-

Drop some baking soda into the block when its dry and add water!

Gav

[biggy7]

they had some black stuff (algae?) inbetween the lucite top and the copper block around the edges. How do i get rid of it? is there anything i can use before hand to wash the blocks out with?

spirt vinegar will get the black stuff out

-or-

Drop some baking soda into the block when its dry and add water!

Gav

here is the pic of my maze3,


can that be cleaned off somehow, withiut taking the lucite top off as i dont want to void the warranty.

also here is the NB block (bad pic - sorry), u see the black stuff within the O ring? how can i get rid

[Rushifell]

spirt vinegar will get the black stuff out

if its algae or mold, say he didnt dry the block out and there was still a little water in it and he left it sitting.
you can put a little bleach in it, plug the barbs and turn it upside down for like 5 minutes, then WASH IT OUT THOROUGHLY, VERY THOROUGHLY. Alchohol may also do the trick, up to you but if u use alchohol let it sit longer.  If u use vinegar add baking soda down both hose barbs when u have vinegar in the block for twin "volcanic" amusement (and a little bit of a mess)

[Souljacker]

Yep - baking soda or caustic soda will clean em up.

However - the cpu block appears to have the buildup on the outside of the block - ie theother side of the o-ring.  Which could really occur for a few reasons, (sat in a damp environment, condensation - but most of all - a leak) give it a damn good leak test before you decide to run it.

[biggy7]

Yep - baking soda or caustic soda will clean em up.

However - the cpu block appears to have the buildup on the outside of the block - ie theother side of the o-ring.  Which could really occur for a few reasons, (sat in a damp environment, condensation - but most of all - a leak) give it a damn good leak test before you decide to run it.

thanks for the replies guys.

when i got the block it had condensation in it, i was assured there was no leak tho.

i will try the baking soda technique.

ps. can i just put the whole block in a bowl of baking soda? completly submerged under water?

[Souljacker]

You can, but not too sure what it would do to the warranty sticker.

[biggy7]

well i dipped the side with all the algae into a bowl of water and caustic soda, how long do i leave in it in for?

also wats the best way to dry the insides out? b4 condensation forms and causes more damage? im not using the blocks yet,

cheers

[Gav2k]

if it was me i'd open the block up and give it a good clean! take the barbs off and put some new ptfe tape on!

15 mins in soda is fine take out every 2-3 mins to check

[Marci]

Ok then......I'm looking to be adding my watercooling kit soon and was wondering if I was going a bit OTT with:

3x120mm Rad to cool CPU on loop1
2x120mm rad to cool NB and GPU on loop2

Well, me n fliptone use a single HE120.3 to cool a 220w TEC Cooled CPU, Rad9700 GPU and nF7-S nb, so YES. Just a tad excessive.

[biggy7]

ok guys, an update, i 1st used caustic soda, and moved on to lemon juice,

i unscrewed the 2 bolts on the side where it has all that growth a little bit, and left it standing in lemon juice for 10mins, came out perfect

my next concern is having inspected the maze3 closer, it looks like the caustic soda has done some damage not sure how tho, its like its burnt the copper. the sides were like that already, but the little dots on the base werent lie that i dont think.

please see pic:



Is there still hope for the block???   can it still be used?

[[O-CuK]ukdave]

Well i dont have a DD block, so i am just guessing etc.

Copper normally doesnt look quite like the inside of the DD blcok looks like (when new). So i would presume that it is coated with some kind of anticorrosive/shiny looking paint type thing.

it may just be that this layer of stuff is coming away. Give it a good rinse out with lots water, make sure there are no flakey bits p*ssing about and it will probably work just like before.

end of guessing.

[biggy7]

Well i dont have a DD block, so i am just guessing etc.

Copper normally doesnt look quite like the inside of the DD blcok looks like (when new). So i would presume that it is coated with some kind of anticorrosive/shiny looking paint type thing.

it may just be that this layer of stuff is coming away. Give it a good rinse out with lots water, make sure there are no flakey bits p*ssing about and it will probably work just like before.

end of guessing.

thanks for the reply mate

i guess im gona have to open it up then and void the warranty,

anyone know if u can open the block up and then put it back together again without replacing the O ring?